After weeks deciding what components to buy I'm building my PC. I'm using it to browse Internet, Office and light gaming. What do you think?

Home » Hardware » After weeks deciding what components to buy I'm building my PC. I'm using it to browse Internet, Office and light gaming. What do you think?
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CPU: AMD A10-7860k 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor. Includes CPU Cooler.

Mobo: MSI A88XI AC V2 Mini ITX FM2+ Motherboard.

Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory.

Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive.

GPU: MSI Radeon R7 250 2GB Video Card.

Case:

CPU: AMD A10-7860k 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor. Includes CPU Cooler.

Mobo: MSI A88XI AC V2 Mini ITX FM2+ Motherboard.

Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory.

Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive.

GPU: MSI Radeon R7 250 2GB Video Card.

Case: Cooler Master Elite 110 Mini ITX Tower Case.

PSU: Antec EarthWatts Green 380W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply.

COMPONENTS EXPLANATION

CPU: I choose the AMD A10-7860k which is an APU (CPU + GPU). Why an AMD A-Series APU? Because I need a CPU with Integrated Graphics. Why not Intel? Firstly, Radeon is well known better in Integrated Graphics than Intel. Secondly, AMD is best choice for the money/performance. Lastly, I'm a AMD fanboy. Why not the AMD A10-7890k or AMD A10-7870k? I wanted to be 65 watts of TDP since I'm also using it as a HTPC.

Memory: I choose the Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory. I know, I know, the Mobo can hold up to 16gb and I should use 1x8gb in case I what to upgrade it later with another one. But I'm not planning to. So I choose 2×4 GB for them to work dual. Why DDR3-1866 and not 2133? The price difference is 20$ and benchmarks I've seen proves it doesn't make to much of a difference.

GPU: (OPCIONAL). I'm planning on assembly this PC without it at first. 350$. Them I'll use the MSI Radeon R7 250 2GB Video Card on dual graphics with the APU. 75$ more. Getting a total of 450$.

Other answer:

JD:
Not a bad way to go for the super budget build with integrated graphics… but I think you'd get a lot more performance if you saved a little more money.

Yes, you don't need 16 GB for most gaming, 8 is plenty.
Make sure the RAM speed benchmarks are using integrated graphics, because it might make a difference there.

With Crossfire it's almost always worth it to just buy a better dedicated GPU rather than going with Crossfire.

Also be careful with the R7 250. Some manufacturers sell 250x cards labeled as 250s and they don't work with Crossfire. My MSI card is one of those, I didn't want it for crossfire though so it wasn't a problem with me.

You may also want to try PC Part Picker, a great website for designing computers.

MIKE:
such a bad idea. Build something that has not yet been, or cannot be found already built at a store. At least the ones at the store will have parts that wont bottleneck one another, would consider each other's minimum requirements and have a warranty as well.
so unless you're doing this for the experience, it would be wiser to just buy a 500$ PC. A whole one.

by the way you also need a compatible monitor and peripherals so thats another $ amount unless you've got them already

Glacierwolf:
Your build – is a total waste of money and time.

Instead of buying a decent computer at Walmart for $400 that comes with a full warranty……… you are going to go through all the pain and aggravation to save what, $10? And have no warranty.

Worse – all the parts you have chosen – are bottom feeders. Worse, you leave yourself no room for expansion without having to toss out something already paid for. WTF were you thinking with a 380watt PSU?

The only reason to build your own computer – is because they do not make what you want. What you have here – is near identical to low ender computers found in any box store.

Worse, much worse. You will be tossing most of this 'build' in the trash a year from now.

If you told me you were trying to build a low budget computer that would run off of solar panels attached to your home …….. I could maybe see this build. But you have nothing here I cant get at Walmart.

AceSeptre:
Here is a linkhttp://pcpartpicker.com/list/x3yx9W to a build list that is a bit better than the parts you listed for a price of $485. It's a bit over your $450 budget however I factored in the price of Windows 10 so the one I listed actually comes out a bit cheaper than the one you listed and it's a better PC. It has a faster, more modern CPU (that is actually cheaper than the one you listed), a better motherboard that is better suited for expansion and has a more modern CPU socket for future upgrade-ability (and is again cheaper than the one you listed). It has the same amount of RAM, same exact HDD, but it has a much better power supply, and a WAY better GPU. The build I listed is fully capable of high quality 1080p gaming at 60FPS. The one you listed would not perform near as well.
briangervais81:
honestly A series CPU's arent really fit for anybody to use. it makes much more sense to go with a something like a 845k and a rx 460. much faster and likely cheaper than what you have here, however you will need to get the GPU right away as well.

i know you said your am AMD fanboy but if you went with something like a pentium g4500, which out performs either AMD CPU, and you can use the on board graphics until you get a video card, even going with an i3-6100 system wont run you alot more than your original.

alternatively getting a walmart special will serve your needs fine

Andrew S:
It's a reasonably balanced system based of your stated and implied criteria. I assume you are looking for a very compact, quiet and unobtrusive system on a budget. Be wary of people who substitute their preferences and requirements for your own when making recommendations. Yes, it's not the fastest system out there but you knew that already and as already stated there is no single weak link. To counter a point another poster has made, yes, this kind of specialized system is somewhere where you can save decent money by self-building. General purpose workstations and gaming machines are well catered for by the mass market making the savings generally non-existent, but this is something slightly more niche.

On the other hand I do have a few observations. Firstly. memory. Personally I would not pay a penny extra for those heat-spreader shrouded contraptions aimed solely at the gamer market. Historically heat spreaders were introduced to conceal substandard memory chips rather than anything to do with cooling. Even from the quality makes it has everything to do with marketing and nothing to do with performance. Shop around for similarly specced bare modules from a quality manufacturer instead. On a similar vein personally I would go the single module route. The theoretical benefits of dual channel to not translate to real benefits for gamers, websurfing and general office work, ranging from unnoticeable on a good day to unmeasurable on a bad one. Keeping a slot clear gives to the option for a handy performance boost at a later date at lower cost than junking your existing memory.

As for the hard drive, I was going to suggest the WD SSHD hybrids since the last time I was going to go HDD-only they gave me a very handy performance boost for next to no extra money. However, that was on their 4TB units around 12 months ago. It doesn't translate as easily now at 1TB but it is something I'd look at seriously if the budget allows for it.

Your PSU is fine – 380W is more than ample for an ITX system. To give some dimensions, my fileserver has only a 180W unit and that is driving four mechanical hard drives and a DVD. Don't be oversold – an overspecced PSU will be less efficient and on average noisier than a more appropriately sized unit.

As for your case – personally I don't rate Cooler Master – they always seem to chase gamers with marketing rather than material benefits – but that is more subjective than anything else. I'd also prefer a slot for at least a slimline optical drive, but again that is my preference rather than yours so it is no reason not to go for it.

AJ:
Honestly, and this is what i'm moving to myself.

Make a Surface Pro 4 your desktop/laptop/tablet replacement.

I have tested connecting my surface pro 4 up to 3 monitors with a wireless keyboard & mouse. And it works great. I can even play mmorpg on it. You just need to buy an i7 version

Andy L:
Dual graphics is usually terrible.
You get microstuttering unless the integrated and discrete graphics match within a few percent in performance.
You show no operating system.
Why would you spend so much for a minimal performance power supply?
As a matter of fact, they degraded it in the latest model. It is a split rail Delta Power supply instead of a Seasonic, and you should not be using a split rail 380 watts. Bad choice of power supply.
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archi…

The MSI R7 250 2GB is the low performance one. The 1GB is the GDDR5 high performance one. But the R7 250 you show may be weak enough to match the graphics of the APU, but what a bad way to get where you are going.
It may work as only slightly unstable with the 11% difference
http://www.game-debate.com/gpu/index.php…

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/4Vyx9W
$436.70 delivered without Windows, with the R7 250 2GB DDR3 , plus any sales tax.
5034 performance CPU, and a graphics performance around an R7 250X at $55 but way below a GTX 750 TI at $90.

So, you want an energy efficient weaker at gaming performance vs Intel at equivalent passmark because their lower technology is cheaper and you like them. You want strong integrated graphics so you can get mediocre overall graphics when you add the old overpriced R7 250 weak version to minimize the microstuttering. And you want an overpriced weak quality stretched to its limit because you probably think a 380 watt supply has less power use and heat instead of more.
And you chose ram with some reasonable logic, but neglected shipping when you chose Black.

It has thought behind it, but misses on a lot of key points, probably for things you didn't know about.

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/G9QRFd
$437.69 after rebate.
AMD A8-7600 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor
Loses nothing in CPU performance, and may gain a little bit. It still has an integrated graphics at about the Intel HD 530 level to get you started if you wanted to wait on the graphics card or be able to test it without the card. We are not messing around with the short-lived Dual Graphics, which is NOT the same as crossfire. It is still a 65W CPU
MSI A88XI AC V2 Mini ITX FM2+ Motherboard – You chose it
Kingston HyperX Fury White 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory – same. Using the white color for price and source
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive – I would rather see a 240GB SSD, but it is OK.
XFX Radeon RX 460 2GB Video Card – You still have AMD here.
The RX 460 is 140% better than the proper dual graphics match of that MSI card with an A10-7870K
Cooler Master Elite 110 Mini ITX Tower Case – your choice
Corsair Builder 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Single rail, sufficient power and will not overload, and still 80+Bronze and made by Channel Well Tech instead of Delta Electronics
Base Total: $442.73 Mail-in Rebates: -$20.00 Shipping: $14.96 Total: $437.69

This takes everything you wanted, throws out the defective dual graphics, leaves a start of graphics even if lower, and when you add the graphics card is almost 2.5x the gaming, and the general performance reports to be at least as strong.
Fixed the power supply quality and load problem.

I would not go much higher on graphics, because you want AMD CPUs and they really are typically much worse at gaming than Intel core i cpus.
Here is one game test:
http://www.techspot.com/review/1180-overwatch-benchmarks/page5.html

starpc11:
It looks good and not being a fan boy about it you can run office off a single core processor but some features will be limited as far ad light gaming it would be okay for that maybe later on upgrade
Will:
Consider the new GTX 1050 or 1050i cards. Little more money for a lot more graphics power.

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